#Sattley Engine History Cracked And Repaired#

Sattley Engine History Cracked And Repaired

The governor weights, which were in the water jacket, needed to be brazed back together. The cam and crank gears had chipped and broken teeth. The head was freeze-cracked and repaired with a very poorly done braze (possibly by the man who did the bearing cap job). Majestic engine history Craig Prucha 15 HP Dempster and Comstock, 40 HP Buffalo Olin, 20 HP Bovaird and Seyfang, 5 HP Economy, 3 HP Fairbanks Morse, 3 HP Regal, 4 HP R M Fowler, 4 HP Araco, Maytag 92, 20 HP Simplex, 10 HP Fairbanks Morse NB, 20 HP Superior, 25 HP Ball, 25 HP South Penn, Fishkill Corliss steam engine, 2 HP Rumsey, Ball,In addition, the pulley side main bearing cap was a poorly homemade part, brazed with a piece of pipe, two flat steel parts and possibly the worst repouring of babbitt I have ever seen.

There is a guy who brings one to Jacktown every so often that runs on 6 or 8 B&S engines.My friend said, вЂњIf you want a real challenge, here it is!вЂќ I bought the Sattley and my friend said, вЂњLet me know how you do on it.вЂќWith the day drawing to a close, I walked out through the display area and was fascinated with this woodsplitter belted to a Sattley engine as seen in Photo 24. The Cletrac General GG is a fairly rare tractor. They also sold hit miss engines called Sattley's that were made by Nelson Bros. I think the tractor is actually a Cletrac General GG and Monkey Wards put their name on it.

The crankshaft was then turned on the lathe and polished smooth.I did not have a magneto and could not tell if the engine ever had one. However, it wasnвЂ™t straight to start with, so I straightened it by using chains, a 3-foot piece of railroad rail and a hydraulic jack. Since this didnвЂ™t get the shaft too hot, it didnвЂ™t distort. For several days, I made one welding pass in the morning along the shaft, starting at the keyway, and the same pass in the evening. I planned to buy a parts engine and put the two engines together to make one good one, but no such luck.I looked at the crankshaft for a while and decided to weld the area that was worn down.

The front side was also faced flat so it clears the main bearing cap and boss. I turned a flat face to the inside to fit the 2-1/2-by-3/16-inch flat washer that mounts it on the crankshaft. The engine has solid flywheels and the Briggs flywheel can be hidden inside the solid flywheel and not be noticed.I put the Briggs magneto flywheel in the lathe, cut off the cooling fins and bored a 1-1/2-inch hole in the center to fit the Sattley crankshaft.

Then, the bosses for the brass pins were cut into the engine block just ahead of and below the main bearing boss on the pulley side of the engine. This took some very careful measuring and fitting to get just right. The original Briggs points would not work so I used automobile distributor points from a 1970s Chrysler Six that I had lying around. 8 screws on the other end. A 5/16-inch shoulder 1-1/4 inches long was turned on the lathe, threaded on one end, and drilled and tapped for No.

Once this was in place, I was able to cut a flat spot into the Sattley crankshaft just like the Briggs crankshaft to open and close the points.The piston ring grooves were badly worn at the wrist pin, so I went from 1/4-inch rings to 5/16-inch rings by lathe-turning the ring grooves wider so they would now be square again. The splice cannot be near any metal or it will leak.A 3/16-inch hole was drilled through the newly poured babbitt and through the block casting to accept a sleeve through which the Briggs points pushrod will protrude to open and close the points. When I have this correct, a steel roll pin will be used to eliminate any movement of the flywheel on the crank mounting.The coil output wire was extended by soldering a longer wire to the existing wire and taping the splice up. The trick was to get the coil-points and flywheel into perfect synchronization so that a good spark occurs at the right time. Two of the brass pins act as a distributor plate as in an automobile engine, and two mount the Briggs coil.

The valves were shot, though, and the exhaust valve stem was 80 percent rotted away. The cylinder bore was lightly honed to clean it up and give it a crosshatch to seat the rings faster.Other than the ugly welding, the head was not too bad. A new 3/8-inch National Fine thread high-grade bolt was used to clamp it to the wrist pin. Piston bosses were rebored to fit as they were worn oval shaped.The brazing on the rod loop was left as-is without grinding down the brazing, as it wonвЂ™t be seen.

A 1/8-inch hole for a spring retaining cotter key was drilled, and the valve seats were reground and narrowed.The fuel mixer was OK and just needed to be cleaned. I have a 6-gallon plastic bucket full of old automobile engine valves (I do auto repair), and two valves were found, reground and shortened. The original valves had 5/16-inch stems, but the valve guides were worn way out of spec and were rebored to 0.314375 inch.

I use a homemade 240-volt electric stove top for preheating welding and melting babbitt for pouring. Then, both main bearings were repoured with fresh babbitt and rebored to fit the newly repaired crankshaft. I hope it works.I made a new main bearing cap from a pipe T cut down the middle and welded onto 5/8-inch-thick by 1-inch-wide ears for the hold-down bolts.

I used a piece of angle iron, 3/4-by-3/4-by-5-1/2-inch, sawn out on a band saw, and drilled on a drill press to fabricate a new blade. The governor pick blade was broken off, but the half that was there gave me a good idea of what itвЂ™s supposed to look like. Luckily, all of the pieces were present and were brazed back on.

The brass parts of the governor were worn out or missing and had to be remade completely. The collar that the flyweights pivot on in the cam gear were badly worn and refashioned square in the milling machine. These are mostly stamped or fabricated parts, and the weights are cast iron.

I made a small, 2-wheel skid/cart so it easily moves around. Wards contracted for all of its engines, and itвЂ™s possible that mine was a contract engine from Field-Brundage.No usable wood was on the engine skid and it needed a couple of wheels. It also shows a flat, rectangular pushrod, while my pushrod is round. A Montgomery Wards catalog from the mid-1920s shows decals on the water jacket and a WICO EK magneto. I was told that these engines were painted a light brown but this one has traces of green, so I painted it green.